2015
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Caux, a few km north-west of Pézenas
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| Dry white, full bodied. Fermented and aged in oak barrels |
Ugni Blanc, Grenache Gris, Chardonnay
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13.0%
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Smoked salmon, shellfish, chicken, cheese
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Even better
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2018-2025
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| A fairly pronounced orange/gold colour, with a slight sediment that runs through it, which doesn't seem to completely settle, even after the bottle has been standing for a few days. Not that this should be of any concern, although some people may alarmed! The nose offers an attractive mix of fruit and non-fruit aromas - very "natural", with hints of peach, dessert apple, raisin and spice, mingled with garrigue herbs and fennel seed, not to mention a really intense wet stone minerality. Unsurprisingly - given that Ugni Blanc is the main constituent variety - there is also a subtle but undeniable whiff of fine Cognac. The palate is even more expressive than the nose, with apple and other tree fruit and citrus peel flavours combined with subtle hints of honey, herb and spice notes. The texture is no more than medim-rich, perhaps even a touch tannic - courtesy of plenty of skin contact - though it remains really quite vibrant and fresh, courtesy of ample citrus and apple skin acidity. Purists and natural wine skeptics beware - this is an incredibly quirky and unusual wine - indeed , the very essence of "natural wine" - which will certainly not be to everyone's taste. It is a living, breathing thing, which continues to evolve in the glass, even for a day or two after opening. I can see it evolving nicely to 2020 and beyond. |
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